Experience Camino: part 3 – crossing the border!
Two almost 6 hours long stages ahead. Both of them were filled with amazing views, great food, and talks with other pilgrims. But also with darkness, pain, and change of plans. Having a beer on the top of the mountain on Day 6 was worth all of it!
DAY 5
Ponferrada – Villafranca del Bierzo
24,2 km (walked 24,59 km)
5:47:28
Notes from my notebook for this day:
- smaller town
- Carrefour
- 2 ways how to get there with a beautiful monastery on the longer route
- last kilometres through the vineyards
Another hot day for a walk. Villafranca del Bierzo was the destination for many pilgrims as it was a bigger town than any of the villages on the way. We knew that many pilgrims also stayed in the town which was 7 kilometres away behind us. They would have a longer day than us.
Sunrises of Camino and time for breakfast
It was one of the best sunrises during Camino. We were walking, leaving the town. The sun started rising from behind and I kept turning my head to catch it at the right moment. I stopped, got my camera ready, and took one of my best sunrise pictures.
We stopped for breakfast a couple of minutes after sunrise. The place was busy, so we took one of the last tables. It was our routine – to wake up early and have some cookies or muffins before we leave the albergue. We walked 5-8 kilometers and then stopped in some bar or restaurant and had a proper breakfast. Tortilla de patata, chocolate pastry, coffee, orange juice.
Fields and vineyards
We had regular breaks, sitting down and drinking a lot of water. Becoming a bit busier on the way, we saw pilgrims we hadn’t met before. We met the couple from day 3 and walked together for a while.
The last kilometers have been the most difficult. We were walking through the fields, which changed to a new scenery. Vineyards! Everywhere around us! It was beautiful. I enjoyed taking pictures there. No shadow and the terrain was dusty, dry, and full of hills – up and down, with the uphill leading to town.
Coming to town, hangry
Albergue was located on one of the narrow streets, which looked like a movie. Tall houses on both sides, walls from large stones. Picturesque.
We dropped our backpacks in the albergue and went to the town center to find a restaurant to sit down and eat. It was so busy there! It looked like the town was popular not only for the pilgrims but also for other trips. There have been random groups of tourists everywhere. Maybe because of the vineyards or because of the beautiful streets. Not sure. The restaurants were full of people. We sat at one and waited for the waiter to come. I lost patience after 15 minutes. I was hangry – hungry & angry, one of the worst situations you can experience with me. We moved to a different restaurant. We were waiting for the food forever.
Suddenly, we heard a thunder and it started pouring. More thunders and lightning. We were happy that we were already at our destination and felt sorry for the pilgrims, who were still walking, during that storm, somewhere on the top of the hills. Well, we were about to experience that in a couple of days…
More wine, please
After the meal, we walked out of town, where we found a river to put our feet to cool down and enjoyed the sunny weather. Then we wandered into the monastery, part of which was rebuilt to albergue. Such a magnificent place! We walked around the local church, went to buy some food for the next days, and stopped in a small bar to have a glass of local wine.
Many restaurants and bars didn’t have a proper menu, the waiters were there to tell what they had on offer that day. We were looking for a place to have a cheese and ham platter with bread for dinner. We asked if it was possible to have it in one of the restaurants. Of course! Even if it wasn’t on the menu, the people there were so accommodating!
It was a nice day, but the walk was long and difficult. And my friend was still in pain…
My recommendation
The note about the monastery from my notebook – we took the shorter route as it was a hot day, so we didn’t pass the monastery. Its name is Monasterio Santa María de Carracedo, the pictures online look great. Go to check it out if you have time to take a longer route on that day.
Restaurants
Restaurante Sevilla – on the main square of Villafranca. Very busy during lunchtime (around 2 pm in Spain), but the food was good and tinto de verano as well. Tinto de verano is a red wine with ice and lemon/orange. Great for hot days.
Hostal Ultreia & wineshop – tiny bar with tapas (small portions of the local food) and great wine. Nice location close to the center, around the corner from the main square so you aren’t disturbed.
Bar Genin – a place where they were happy to serve us ham and cheese plates even when it wasn’t on the menu. Great service, good food as well.
Accommodation
Albergue Leo – Such a cozy albergue! It was a tall tiny old house with 3 floors and an attic. Wooden floors and staircase, white walls from stones. It used to be a family house, which was changed to albergue. The reception was great and helpful, they took care of my friend in the morning, let her sleep longer, and helped her to get a taxi.
San Nicolas el Real – albergue/monastery wrote about before, where one of our friends stayed for a night. We had a walk around it, it looked great. He told us it was very cheap too, but I checked online and it looks like they are selling night for €55. That is way more than €12 we paid in our albergue. Maybe it is this way now, and then different during the main Camino season. Anyway, check it out!
DAY 6
Villafranca del Bierzo – O Cebreiro
27,8 km (walked 28 km)
5:59:13
We woke up and I saw that something was wrong. My friend wasn’t feeling good, she was exhausted and her foot hurt. The decision was made – I would be walking alone that day.
It was the longest day of our Camino and also the most difficult. Walking almost 28 kilometers, with the last 7 kilometers to the steep hill, to get to the village on the top of the mountain.
Walking solo
It was still dark outside. All packed, I said goodbye to my friend, and promised to update her throughout the day.
I started walking, left the town behind and realized that the sunrise was still far away. I forgot to take the headlight from my friend. Using my phone instead, hoping it wouldn’t take too much battery.
It was very common to find things on the top of the stone marker showing the way, especially within the villages and towns. Locals left fruit, energy bars, and even toothbrushes, and toothpaste. All for pilgrims in need. The spirit of Camino in these places is unbelievable.
Walking completely alone. Then I saw a light behind me. Two men who I have seen in the albergue in the morning. I slowed down and let them go first, I felt safer to see their light in front of me, following it.
Breakfast with a company
I stopped for breakfast after sunrise, as usual. And met many familiar faces. I had breakfast with one Italian guy I knew from the second day of Camino and a woman from Israel, who had shared dinner with us in the first albergue. It was great. They asked about my friend and offered that I could walk with them. I refused. I wanted to use this opportunity to walk alone, to think.
Fighting the pain
I took regular breaks even when I didn’t feel tired. I was fine until the point when I felt a sharp pain in my foot. That kind my friend described she felt for a couple of days already. Not a good sign. Not at all…
I stopped, sat on the bench and removed the shoes. Rested and put them back. And tied them better. It helped enormously. It was tight, but the pain didn’t come back.
The last stretch was the worst
And not only because it was a long stage. Once I saw that the road was changing to a steep walk, I checked how many kilometers I walked until that point. 21 kilometres done. 7 to go. I knew what it meant. It will be only uphill from now on. I was mentally ready for it.
It was long. Walking through the forest full of mosquitoes and then through the fields. I realized that I packed a silicon bracelet against mosquitos with me. I doubted that it worked, but I wanted to try. And it did! The mosquitos were less annoying.
I passed a group of pilgrims. Then I took a break and they passed me, saying hi again. We did this dance passing each other 3 more times, it was funny. They always asked, if I was okay, they saw me walking alone. I was. I enjoyed it, all the pain and sweat. It gave a me a feeling that I am stronger than I thought. Mentally and physically.
Almost there
There was one more village before coming to O Cebreiro – La Laguna. It was a good spot to stop after more than 4 kilometers on the steep hill. It was a small village, but busy! Many pilgrims were resting, getting ready for the last part. At the very beginning of the village, there was a vending machine full of sugary fizzy drinks. I think this was one of the moments when I was happy for that engine/toilet cleaner (coca-cola) going down my throat and adding sugar and caffeine to my blood flow.
Crossing the border
The last 2.5 kilometres offered amazing views. Almost at the top of the hill, I could see the valleys I was walking that day. I stopped to take pictures and videos. During one of those little breaks, 2 pilgrims came from behind me and said that it was a great idea to stop and enjoy the view. We continued together and talked. That was the exact moment when I needed the company and distraction. I was tired and talking with strangers took my mind off it. We crossed ‘the border’ from region León to Galicia together, about 1 kilometre before coming to the village. We reached the top, where my friend was already waiting for me.
90 beds
The albergue was one of 2 albergues on our way where we couldn’t book a bed, it was the first come, first serve. My friend already got her bed and I came in pretty decent time so I got mine, too. We went to a small shop in the village, bought a couple of beers and chips, and sat on the picnic table at the viewpoint above the village. One of the best views I have seen in my life. That peaceful place, just mountains, green forest and meadows, fields, sharing it all with one of the best women I met in my life. Such an incredible place.
O Cebreiro
The village is unique. There are a couple of huts built 1500 years ago. People used to live in them until the 1960s. The population nowadays is only 26 people. Nevertheless, the village is busy with pilgrims, there are a couple of small souvenir shops, restaurants, and a church.
We had dinner in one of a few restaurants with a view of the sunset. Sunsets and sunrises, we could see them all during this walk. Fell in love with them again and again.
Restaurants and bars
Crispeta Bar in village Trabadelo – simple breakfast with great coffee and fresh tortilla de patata. Nice seating in front of the bar, on the side of the road so you can say hi to passing pilgrims and meet the ones you haven’t seen for a while. (Keeping the count of people who are still alive and walking.)
Restaurante Casa Carolo in O Cebreiro – with a view of the sunset. The staff was very nice, food was decent. Not the best pulpo (octopus) I had eaten in my life, but that experience was just about to come!
Accommodation
Albergue Municipal de O Cebreiro
It was the biggest, and the most crowded room I have ever slept in. There were 45 bunk beds in one room, one next to each other. Yes, 90 people slept there every night. 90 strangers, 90 exhausted pilgrims. 90 ways to make noise during the night. Ear plugs and eye masks came in handy.
Bathrooms were on the lower floor, with simple sinks one next to each other, and showers with minimum privacy. Did I care? Not much.
Shoes were placed on the lower floor next to the exit open for us in the morning. They were stored on large shoe racks and had a better view than us from the room! The wall next to the shoe rack was all glass and we could see a panorama like no other.
There were few other albergues to spend a night. If I could choose again, I would still choose this one. It was an experience like no other!
Extra for today
Caminos – how many routes to Santiago de Compostela exist?
So many that it isn’t possible to count them all. You can start walking from Bratislava, from Istanbul, from Málaga. Don’t you believe me? Next time when you will see the shell or the yellow arrow in some random place, you will know I was right.
But now, seriously. The official/most popular routes are:
El Camino Portugués
It starts from the very south of Portugal – Lisbon. Many pilgrims walk the shorter version from Porto. One of my friends walked this route and she loved it. It passes beautiful places and part of it is walking by the ocean. My reason for not walking this would be that I love Spanish culture too much to miss the opportunity to walk through Portugal instead of Spain.
El Camino del Norte
Interesting, going through the cities like Bilbao and Santander and walking along the ocean or very close to it most of the way. However, the weather can be rougher than on the mainland, with many windy and rainy days.
El Camino Primitivo
The name of this Camino comes from the fact, that this is the first documented route to Santiago de Compostela. King Alfonso II walked this route as a pilgrim in the 9th century. It lais on the north of El Camino Francés. It connects to Camino Francés in Melide, about 55 kilometers before reaching Santiago de Compostela.
Epílogo: Fisterra-Muxía
A special Camino, a little different from all others. You can start in Santiago de Compostela and walk to Fisterra, or many pilgrims start in Fisterra and walk to Santiago de Compostela. It takes 4 days and 119 kilometers to walk and is a nice epilogue to Camino. It leads to ‘the end of the world’. Why? Until the Medieval ages, it was considered the last piece of land, where the world finishes. As soon as you reach the destination, there is nowhere else to go, there are only cliffs surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean. You can also make a day trip from it – take a bus, only to see this beautiful place.
El Camino Francés – why did we choose to walk this one?
The largest influence was that we used to know someone who walked this way before, so we had all the information and recommendations. I have done extra research anyway. Of course!
That’s when I realized that it is the most popular of all the routes. More than 50% of the pilgrims are walking to Santiago this way. Many blog posts, information, and YouTube videos are talking about this route. There are hundreds of albergues, restaurants, and places for pilgrims, which makes the journey more enjoyable. So you don’t have to be worried if you will find a place to sleep or eat (except the last part and during high season – I mentioned this in the previous blog post).
Most popular cities to start Camino Frances from:
- Sarria – more than 50% of pilgrims walking this route start in Sarria. The reason is simple – it is ‘only’ 117 kilometers away from Santiago de Compostela. Therefore it is just a little bit more than the minimum 100 kilometres required to walk to receive the Compostela – the official document for the pilgrim who finished the Camino de Santiago. It takes 5 days to come to Santiago. Many first-timers, families with children, or people who don’t have enough time or money to walk longer will choose this point.
- Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port – starting with a hike through the Pyrenees from France to Spain, this is a great spot to meet fellow pilgrims and share the whole journey with them. It takes 5 or more weeks to reach the destination, which can be great, or great suffering, depending on every individual.
- León – a sweet spot in the middle. Enough to experience the real Camino, with local bars, nature, and less busy walks. Experiencing the vibes of 2 regions – León and Galicia, walking the countryside and staying in small villages and bigger towns. We liked it.
What’s next?
The first days in region Galicia. We could feel the difference within the first few hours. Storm and rain, a lot of cows everywhere, and the last calm days. Great food! Beautiful nature!
